Magnificent Martinique

Tucked in the middle of the Caribbean's windward island chain, between Dominica and St. Lucia, Martinique is a favorite destination for European divers. By contrast, the island has long remained off the radar for the North American scuba community. But that's changing. The island's tourism bureau and dive operators are now reaching out to American and Canadian divers, and working with Caradonna Adventures to create stay-and-dive packages that showcase the island's underwater diversity.

Martinique is very much a Caribbean Island, but with a difference. When you touch down at the Aimé Césaire airport, you are officially on French soil. In 1946, this former colony was named an Overseas Department of France, and its residents became citizens of the republic. More than just an interesting bit of trivia, this relationship influences many aspects of life, from the shape of electrical outlets and the ready availability of fresh-baked baguettes to the regulation of scuba diving. In France, the governing body for underwater activities is the Confédération Mondiale des Activités Subaquatiques, aka CMAS. Historically, there's been some misinformation about the ability of divers holding certifications from other international agencies to participate in CMAS dives. The short answer is there is no problem. Based on their experience and abilities, divers with crossover credentials are granted the same diving freedoms as their counterparts in the CMAS system.

You can get some idea of what awaits below the water during boat rides to the dive sites. Martinique is a volcanic island, with a coastline that ranges from steep cliffs to beach-lined coves and broader coastal valleys. These landscapes continue below the surface. All diving takes place on the western shore, which is sheltered from prevailing trade winds and waves. To the north, the submerged shoulders of Mount Pele form steep, wall-like slopes punctuated by canyons and crevices.

Mid-island, the underwater landscape becomes less vertical, often beginning with shallow boulder fields in 10 to 20 feet of water that transition to ridges and moderately steep slopes, which continue down to depths beyond 130 feet. To the south, the broad bay of Le Marin encompasses acres of hard coral reefs in more uniform depths, along with several plateaus that rise above this broad submerged plain. This diversity of underwater terrain allows divers of varying interests and experience levels to enjoy the same site and allows for extended multi-level profiles that remain interesting right up to safety stop depths.

One of the signature elements of Martinique's diving scene is the diversity of small to mid-sized species that can be found in relative abundance. This includes a wealth of tropical fish, an even greater number of invertebrates and one of the Caribbean's most abundant and colorful collections of crinoids. Photographers should definitely pack a macro lens, but you don't have to be a scuba shutterbug to appreciate the up-close opportunities.

With bottom times that can easily be extended beyond the hour mark without complaints from the dive computer, there's no need to rush, and plenty of time to slow down and take in the details. Closer looks at the tentacles of an anemone or the folds of a sponge will often reveal diminutive cleaner shrimp waving their antennae to attract customers, or going about the business of delousing a moray eel. When taking in the wider view, divers may find themselves drifting in a cloud of purple creole wrasses or easing into a school of snappers holding formation under an overhanging ledge.

Martinique is home to more than two dozen dive charter companies scattered along the island's western coast. The majority follow the French tradition of dividing a two-dive schedule into separate morning and afternoon trips, with time in between for a relaxing lunch ashore. But there are also several operators that will offer back-to-back morning dives, and longer all-day excursions to more distant sites that may involve lunch aboard or a stop at a beachfront cafe between dives. In general, operators do not place arbitrary limitations on bottom times merely for the sake of keeping to a fixed schedule. So long as divers follow the dictates of no-stop profiles, and dive within the parameters of their certification and abilities, they are given appropriate freedoms.

Given that any listing of “best dive sites” runs the risk of exclusion, there are a number of venues in Martinique's waters that are worthy of special mention. The most famous of these is Le Rocher du Diamant, aka Diamond Rock. This 575-foot spire sits a mile offshore of the mainland and is within range of a number of dive operators leaving form the central or south coast. The most dramatic feature of the rock is a towering swim-through known as Le Cathedral. Boulder fields near the base of the spire create additional swim-throughs, and a series of nearby plateaus hold a colorful assortment of gorgonians and sponges. This is also a prime area to site larger fish and sea turtles.

A second shouldn't miss site is the wreck of the Nahoon, which is a three-masted schooner sent down as an artificial reef in the early 1990s. The ship has acquired a colorful coating of sponges and corals, and its holds have become home to eels and schooling fish. The ship's intact wheel is a favorite place to pause for an underwater selfie. A site that is typical of the central coast is Pointe Burgos, where a ridge extending outward from the shore forms a 40-foot deep plateau flanked by walls that drop beyond recreational depths. This structure attracts a mix of reef and blue water marine life, and the ledges at various depths provide opportunities to search for cryptic subjects among the crevices.

Though less visited, sites to the north such as Le Sous-Marin and La Perle show a different side of the underwater landscape. Here, divers can navigate a maze of canyons and caverns shaped by volcanic action and descend on near-vertical walls that begin as shallow as 30 feet and drop to 130. In contrast to these high-relief sites in the north, sites in the southern district of Le Marin are known for coral-covered plateaus and plains that provide relaxing shallow to mid-depth profiles and a greater variety of hard corals. Among the favorites in this area are Kaye Boucaniers, La Point Borghese and Grand Kaye.

Even avid divers will want to devote some time to discovering Martinique's above-water attractions. The steady trade winds that sweep across the Bay of Fort-de-France create ideal conditions windsurfing and kiteboarding, while the sheltering bluffs and calm coves of Les Anses-d'Arlet are ripe for exploration by kayak. Other water-themed activities include mangrove tours, day sailing excursions and offshore fishing trips. Ashore, relaxing choices include driving tours to historic sites and nature reserves, walking exploration of the shops and eateries of downtown Fort de France, or simply an afternoon spent in one of the numerous waterfront cafes scattered across many of the island's scenic beaches.

For a bit more exercise, the island offers more than 200 miles of hiking trail. Some of which follow lead to deserted beaches or follow easy routes through coastal forests, while others ascend into rainforest slopes, or provide challenging climbs to the summit of 4,600-foot Mt. Pelee. A special treat for anyone with an appreciation of history and a taste for rum is a visit to one of the island's distilleries. Martinique's Rhum Agricole is famous for its distinct character, and the island's premium aged spirits are prized by connoisseurs.

An additional aspect of a Martinique dive vacation that permeates every aspect of the trip is the island's unique blend of Caribbean and French cultures. Daily life runs on a relaxed island time, but with a Continental flair, and an efficiency that is sometimes lacking in this part of the world. Remembering a few seldom-used phrases from French class will earn you the appreciation of the locals, but even those who don't speak a word of la langue Françoise are welcomed with courtesy.

Caradonna Adventures is the first dive travel agency to connect Martinique to the North American dive market. We are working with a number of dive operators and hotels to create special packages that showcase the islands underwater and its rich French and Creole cultures. To learn more and hear about current offers and specials, give us a call at 800-330-6611 or send a note to sales@caradonna.com.