Diving the Golden Rock

The island of St. Eustatius isn't the best-known or the most popular island in the Caribbean. And that's just fine for those who are familiar with this diminutive gem of the leeward island chain, which is usually referred to simply as “Statia.” The island is old-school Caribbean, home to just 3,000 residents, a handful of small hotels, and a landscape dominated by farms and forests. National parks and preserves cover nearly a third of the landscape, and the entire shoreline is ringed in a marine park that encompasses some 14 square miles of prime marine habitat.

Statia's underwater landscapes offer divers healthy corals, abundant marine life and a lot of variety. To the north, an ancient lava flow formed ledges, canyons and caverns. A unique feature of some sites is the distinctive dome-shaped “lava bomb” formations that formed when red-hot flows of molten rock erupted from subterranean vents to meet the cooling waters of the sea. Over thousands of years, these structures have gained thick overgrowths of corals and sponges. To the south, reefs take on more familiar spur-and-groove profiles, with coral ledges alternating with sand channels. Many sites begin shallow then transition into steeper slopes and walls. These reefs are home to an expected cast of Caribbean creatures, including rays, sharks turtles, angelfish, butterflyfish, parrotfish, and spotted drums, with crevices holding moray eels, octopus and lobster, and closer looks revealing seahorses and frogfish. Wide expanses of volcanic sand create an underwater playground for macro diving, while sites on the edge of deep water may see passing migrations of dolphin and whales in winter months. Sand bottoms also hold one of Statia's signature finds, the flying gurnard.

Wrecks are another signature feature of Statia's underwater scene. Some 200 historic shipwrecks are said to rest in the island’s waters, but most of these wooden vessels have long since deteriorated into little more than piles of ballast rock and rusting anchors. Several of these sites are visited on a regular basis, with a favorite being the Double Wreck, where the emphasis is on the marine life that hides among the coral-encrusted debris and the numerous southern stingrays that prowl the adjacent sand flats. Another popular dive into history takes place at Blue Bead Hole, where the seafloor holds lost items such as clay pipes and pottery, along with the site's namesake blue beads, which were once used as currency during the days of the slave trade. Historic artifacts are not to be disturbed at this site, but divers lucky enough to find one of the iconic blue beads are allowed to keep them. Statia also has several modern wrecks, including the 330-foot former cable layer Charlie Brown, and the 174-foot Chien Tong.

Statia is a small island with a large, rich history. In the Colonial era, it was a Caribbean hub of maritime traffic, known as the Golden Rock. Its harbor at Oranje Bay welcomed ships from around the world, and shoreside warehouses were filled with trade goods such as textiles, molasses and spices. Today, things are much quieter. The island is a special municipality within the Netherlands, boasting a stable economy, and one of the region's highest standards of living. The relatively small number of tourists who visit the island are housed in small hotels near the island's sole township of in addition to water sports and diving, favorite activities center around nature. Hiking trails lead into forest preserves, and the island's signature walk is a climb of the extinct volcanic cone known as The Quill. The interior of this large crater hides a rainforest that thrives within the shelter of the cone. More hiking and biking trails crisscross the island, some leading to miles of deserted volcanic sand beaches. History buffs can spend hours exploring the numerous restored fortifications and commercial buildings that are vivid reminders of the island's busy past.

Owner-operated Scubaqua is Statia's premier dive center, providing access to all of the island's best sites, both north and south. Daily diving activity is relaxing and easy, as the dock of the waterfront dive center is close to hotels, and gear can be stored at the shop. The dive center includes showers, changing rooms, multiple rinse stations, gear rental and sales, and camera charging stations. Before and after diving, customers are encouraged to linger and relax, with complimentary WiFi and an on-site bar for refreshment. Dives are conducted in small groups. New divers are provided with appropriate attention, while experienced divers are given the freedom to perform responsible no-decompression profiles that can exceed 70 minutes. To enhance these profiles, Scubaqua provides complimentary Nitrox to qualified divers.

Statia's most picturesque hotel is The Old Gin House, which is located adjacent to the Scubaqua dive center. This historic landmark hotel incorporates the 250-year-old walls of the Mooshay Bay Public House, with parts constructed from old bricks used by sailing ships as ballast. The boutique inn includes 20 rooms and suites nestled into palms and bougainvillea, with ocean views, large mahogany beds and colonial style furniture. The Old Gin House's ocean-view restaurant is considered the best on the island, and the character-rich bar is a favorite gathering place for happy hour.

Another favorite choice for divers is the recently-opened Orange Bay Hotel, which is an even more intimate eight-room property located close to the dive center. This latest addition to Statia's hotel roster delivers a full suite of modern conveniences at cost-effective prices. The property is just across the street from the ocean, and close to the dive center and nearby restaurants.

We partner with Scubaqua and works with both Orange Bay Hotel and The Old Gin House to create special stay-and-dive packages. And as even old Caribbean hands who have logged dives in all the region's better-known destinations will attest, if you haven't yet been to Statia, you haven't seen all the Caribbean has to offer. To plan your own Statia diving experience, talk to our dive travel specialists at 800-330-6611 or send a note to sales@caradonna.com.